Trench Quest, Part II - Burberry Kids sz 12

Ever since I started blogging, I've been slowly distancing myself from the kids department. The kiddie section is great for bargains, but 90% of the time there is something about the garment that just says "KIDS." This month, however, I was lured in by Burberry's selection of (relatively) affordable kids trench coats. Many readers have been asking about the fit of these, so I ordered a few (3, to be exact!) in the name of experimentation.

 Trench: Burberry Girls Mini Ivybridge, sz 12Y / 152cm (adult version sold here)

Jeans: H&M kids sz 11/12

I picked up the Mini Ivybrdige in sz 12Y/152cm (my height exactly!) for $475. In comparison, the adult Ivybridge sells for $995. This one fit the best out of the three. Continue reading for my review...

Material: the trench material (53% cotton, 37% poly) is much more in line with what I am looking for (unlike the Nordstroms coat) but it was still a little off. The material didn't seem like it was treated with any water-resistant coating, and it looked like spills or stains could easily seep in and settle. It also seemed wrinkle-prone.

Cut/style: Aside from having no defined waist, this cut is pretty much exactly what I want. Very classic look, nicely-proportioned collar & lapel, gun flap (in the kids coat descriptions, they call this a "fun flap"...lol!), and buckle detailing.

Fit: Shoulder width and sleeve length were perfect. The torso, however, was quite boxy when un-belted (see pic below). Measurements showed that there was NO difference between the underarm and waist, so the body was just straight up and down (surefire sign of a kids coat). If I were to keep this, I would need the sleeves slimmed, maybe the waist nipped in, and possibly the length shortened.

Measurements: Slimmer than the womens' 2P from Nordies. 17" across at the underarms, 17" across at the waist, 20" across the bottom. 36" total length, 22" sleeve length, 6" sleeve width, 14.5" shoulder width.

 Trying it on with flats:

Special notes: 

1. The belt was a measly 35 inches long (the belt on my raincoat is 56 inches) and it was attached at the back center (see below pic), so you couldn't move it around. There were also no prongs nor belt holes in the belt.

2. I called the Burberry store to see if alterations on full-priced kids coats were also free. They said yes! I just have to mention though that every time I get alterations at the Burberry store, they try to pressure me against getting everything I want done (I do ask for a lot). My advice is to listen to what they have to say, but stand firm on exactly how you want your coat to fit.

Overall, I was surprisingly pleased by this coat. The other styles I ordered (Boys $475 trench and Boys $375 trench) were not worth photographing...but here is one anyways, just for laughs:

I thought that kids coats were "unisex" but boy was I wrong...the boys coats were shapeless to the max and made me feel like friar tuck. Also...surprise! Look at the inside! (I kinda like the gray though...lol)

So overall, what do you guys think? If you were in my position, would you shop Burberry kids for the lower price, or "splurge" all the way for a grown-up's coat?

Trench Quest, Part I: Burberry Petites Double-Breasted Trench

This month marks the beginning of my quest for the perfect, classic Burberry trench. Bear with me if I seem to be nit-picking in the reviews, but I've splurged before on items that I wasn't completely satisfied with, and I want to make sure that doesn't happen again.

The first candidate is this trench from Nordstrom's anniversary sale in 2P, their smallest size. This coat got nothing but rave 5-star reviews from shoppers ("classic" ..."gorgeous" ..."slim"..), so my hopes were high. I was also curious about Burberry's petite sizing - a Nordies exclusive - but the regular Burberry store does such a good job with alterations that petite sizing isn't a huge deal to me. 

Coat: Burberry Double-Breasted Trench sz 2P ($895 was on sale for $550)

Jeans: H&M kids sz 11/12
Heels: Aldo sz 35

Material: When I opened the box, my face fell. The material was reminiscent of waterproof windbreaker fabric, instead of the classic cotton trench material I had expected. Upon reading the label I saw that it was 100% polyester. After feeling the slightly shiny material, I already knew this coat was going back.

Style/Cut: The second thing I noticed was a huge "Burberry Brit" tag slapped inside the coat. This is their casual wear line that is supposedly more "contemporary" and "cheaper" than their classic Burberry London label (sources: Racked & CEO letter). Now why would Nordstrom not mention the Brit part in the title or description like they did for their other Brit merchandise?

The style of this coat was classic enough, but it definitely wasn't cut slim like reviewers suggested. I also felt that the nylon-y material made it drape and crinkle in a way that just wasn't  flattering.

Fit: Although the length and sleeve length were good, the overall fit was big. There was ample room at the chest/underarm area, and the bottom flared out too much after the waist was cinched.There also were no defined shoulders (raglan-style sleeves). If I were to keep this coat, both the sleeves and torso would need to be slimmed.

Measurements: Sz 2 Petite measured 18" across the underarms, 16" across the waist, 22" across the bottom opening, 22" sleeve length, 6" sleeve width, and 15" approximate shoulder width.

Trying it on with flats:

Shapeless when un-belted:

Verdict: A definite no. My aversion to the fit and material must be a personal thing, because everyone else who reviewed this coat on Nordstrom online had nothing but praise...? The boyfriend initially likened the appearance and sound of this jacket to a "garbage bag," but we agreed it looked better under natural lighting.

Redeeming qualities of this trench: petite-friendly length, wonderful details (engraved buttons, shoulder epaulettes, buckles and check under the collar), plus a removable wool liner that zips in and out. From my experience, a removable liner is worth about $200 extra.

Two other petites also ordered this coat - hopefully SeeJessicaGo and PetiteXXS will have their own photos and thoughts to add.

On a separate note, I was browsing online and noticed that petite-favorite Gap Inc. is offering trench coats at three very different price points. From highest-priced to lowest:

Banana Republic Classic Trench in XXSP, Black or Khaki 

(now WHY would they exclude this slate gray color from petites?)

Gap Classic Trench in XSP, Pecan color

Old Navy Long Trench in XSP, available in 5 colors

Readers - will you guys be trying any of the trench coats above? All three of these stores have great coupons & shipping codes from time to time. I think I may try the BR one because the quality looks the best by far, plus it's the only one available in size XXS petite.

Petite Lookbook: Classic Black Coat

Outerwear is one of the hardest things to shop for as a petite - and alterations alone can run pretty high. I invest a lot into my outerwear, but I feel like the cost is justified. Cold weather in the Northeast settles in around October and stays until April, so I get tons of wear out of them. Not to mention, a nice coat definitely makes dreary winter days more tolerable : )

Coat: Burberry F/W08 sz 2 (read about alterations here) (2009 version sold here)

Leggings: H&M sz 2

Scarf: Abercrombie cashmere

Bag: Chanel Petite Shopping Tote

Shoes: Target Mossimo nude pumps sz 5.5

Shop winter coats in petite-friendly sizes:

1. The J.Crew Lady Day Coat and Wool-Cashmere Plaza Coat in P0 are still lurking on final sale in numerous colors. I've heard that their coats run smaller than their tops, but cannot vouch for this myself. Price was just lowered today to $150, but wait for EXTRA20 or EXTRA30 if you can.

2. Nordstrom Wool-Blend Walking Coat in Juniors XS is a very inexpensive option. This coat was introduced to me a while back by a reader. There are 90+ reviews giving it an impressive 4.5 out of 5 stars, and it should run small since it is juniors sizing.

3. Victoria's Secret Classic Wool Coat in P0, on sale as well. First came across this coat in a thread on the Alterations Needed forum. Per the reviewer (who is a tad bigger than me), the fit was decent, however the quality was not great.

4. Mackage Penelope Coat in XXS. Whenever someone hears that I'm a coat fanatic, they tell me that I have to try Mackage. According to the size chart, an XXS is for women measuring 32-25-34.5, which sounds like a P0 to P2. Any petites have experience with this brand?

This coat went through two rounds of alterations (first done by the retail store, second done by my tailors at Hemmingway). I prefer my coats a little more fitted and the sleeves more slim, but overall I'm quite pleased with the results.

New Jacket Reveal - Burberry Part 4 - Felted Plaid Jacket

I've been seeing flannel and plaid jackets everywhere this year, most ubiquitously at retailers like H&M, Forever 21, and Urban Outfitters which cater to youngsters. I have to admit, the trend does seems to look best on those with "grungy chic" style, paired with their skinny jeans and worn-out vans slip-ons. I rarely see it done right as part of a professional wardrobe.

The trick with plaid is that it needs to be the right material and color scheme, or you risk looking somewhat like a poser hipster. Not to mention, an unflattering check pattern can easily add pounds to the female figure. So for something that was on-trend yet stylish and work-appropriate, I turned to the master of both check and outerwear: Burberry!

Check Trench Jacket, avail. in sz 2

Burberry Matelasse Trench, avail. in sz 2p

Although there was a large selection at the Burb store, I came in with predetermined requirements. I knew what I didn't want: no logo Nova check, no shiny materials, no long length (all my coats are long!). Features that I wanted: warm, flannel-like material, style that could be worn for both work and casual, in a nice monotone color scheme.

There was only 1 item at the store that met all of my above requirements, and ... I happened to love it!

Click "Read More" to see what's in my shopping bag : )

A felted jacket in navy, gray, and charcoal plaid immediately caught my eye amongst the more conservative and classic offerings by Burberry this year. Although classic is timeless, sometimes you just want something a little more unique. The jacket I found was warm and cozy, and made chic by lots of heavy zippers and hardware. I tried on the smallest size - size 2, and although it was a little big, I could tell it was workable. The shoulders - 1st thing I look at - fit perfectly and all the proportions seemed on-point, or at least alterable. Even if the buttons or belt loop placements were off, those could have been easily altered.

During the fitting, I requested the torso be slimmed, and the sleeves shortened and slimmed. As I had expected (and feared), the tailors said the only alteration needed was the shortening of the sleeves. They gave me resistance, saying that there needs to be extra room to fit sweaters and blazers underneath. Since they've done this to me before, I came prepared this time and was determined not to be a pushover again! Although I valued their opinion, I wanted the alterations done right the first time - per my own preferences. After some more bickering, the head tailor agreed, muttering under his breath about how it was going to cost one of his tailors over an entire day's work. He then barked at my SA for a smaller size, but of course Burberry does not carry petite coats nor sizes smaller than a 2!

Anyways, the haggling with the tailor was well worth it, because I was very pleased with the end result. They did a meticulous alteration job, especially with the realignment of the check pattern and working with the hardware. As always, alterations are complimentary with retail-priced purchases.

Thanks to my friend, I was able to sneak in some "before" photos in the fitting room to show the alterations : )

Front (Sleeves shortened and slimmed. Sleeve buckles were removed and reattached, zippers were cut and re-clamped):

Before --> After

Side:

Before --> After

Back (torso was taken in 1 inch along each of the two back seams, where the belt loops are, to create more of a "waist" shape):

Before --> After

End result, belted - love it for casual wear with skinny jeans and ankle boots:

Or for work with slim-cut pants and pumps:

Burb - it's all about the details:

My snowboarder/skater boyfriend was quite jealous of my new jacket. He had been hunting for a hipster flannel jacket in blues and grays, and now he can't get one because I beat him to it - ha, ha. The only jacket he'd been able to find so far in this color scheme anyways was a $300 one from Abercrombie & Fitch with an obnoxiously huge logo patch on the left sleeve ... no thanks!

So to summarize, some tips for petites shopping for a coat:

1. Ask the sales associates to recommend slim-cut styles or cuts that run small. I always do this at Burberry and the Theory outlet and have gotten a few good recommendations out of it.

2. Make sure that the shoulders fit and that the unalterable aspects (collar size comes to mind) are right. Although I've had both done, shoulder and lapel alterations are difficult and costly - not worth the risk. Coat length and width are usually alterable, but make sure you go to a good tailor and expect to pay anywhere from $40 to the hundreds.

3. Know the way you like things to fit, and make sure you get the exact alterations you want despite what the tailor says. Definitely take their suggestions into consideration, but in the end you are the one paying for and wearing the coat so there should be no reason to make any compromises.

Although, I do admit I used to have tiny-fit syndrome. I was so sick of having ill-fitting clothes that I would get everything altered almost skin tight, and even rendered a coat unwearable that way. With alterations, it's important to leave a little leeway in case of future changes in tastes or weight gain : )

4. If you're interested in a new coat and happen to be in the Boston area, go, go, go to my sales associate (John Doherty). He's been at Burberry forever and knows womens trench coats and outerwear unlike anyone I've ever met. John works Tuesday through Sunday at the 2 Newbury St store, and it's better to go during weekdays for a peaceful shopping experience. I usually call in just to make extra sure he's working before I make the trip!

Aside from him being the coat guru, I love John because he treats everyone with the same respect regardless of spending ability - now wouldn't it be nice if all SA's were that way? I used to visit that store as a poor college student, decked out in A&F and H&M, clearly with no intention to drop $$. Regardless, John treated me equally if not better than the lady with the 3 Chanel shopping bags. Now that I'm an actual customer, he won't hesitate to dissuade me from buying something that he does not think looks great on me (point in hand - I was at JCrew this weekend couldn't resist trying on the Carlin coat in a Womens size 0. It was swimmingly huge on me, yet 2 sales associates came over to gush about how great I looked). It's service like that which makes me not regret the money spent!

An Unusual Alteration - Burberry, Part 3 - Black Wool Cashmere Coat

Can you spot the difference between the two pics?

Before --> After

We've all had hems shortened and waists taken in, but what about ... a lapel job? As many petites know, the key to a perfect fit is not just length and width. The key is the proportions. Clearly this rule of thumb was something that I overlooked when I acquired this coat in the cold early months of 2008.

I had been hunting for a basic black wool coat for a while, even before I started working. When I saw this coat, I immediately fell in love with the heavenly soft cashmere blend, the cuffed sleeves, and the waist-cinching self belt. So thus I somehow overlooked the floppy oversized collar. After wearing it just twice, several friends commented on the collar, and I slowly realized myself how silly I looked. To give you an idea of how big it was, the collar measured nearly 18 inches across (my shoulder width is only 14 inches). Thus, the coat was sadly put into storage for a year.

Last month, I randomly thought to take the coat to my tailors to see what they can do. Oh no, they said, this is a HUGE job. The collar and the coat itself was one piece, therefore, in order to alter the lapel, they would have to detatch coat from lining via the white piping (shown below) and re-shape the collar with no pattern, then reattatch the piping.

I pleaded, offering to compensate them fairly for their time, but the response: "It's not about the money. We would not forgive ourselves if we didn't do a perfect job on this coat, therefore we cannot accept."

Next stop, back to the Burberry store. They had done the initial alteration for me - shorten sleeves (as usual, they had refused to shorten the length or narrow the sleeves, because they thought the fit was fine...grr). The entire team of tailors were called down to evaluate my unusual request. "We cannot do this," Mr. Head Tailor said, "By policy we cannot alter the design of our coats. By minimizing this collar, it would no longer be Burberry." Sigh ... (insert dramatic eye roll)! I was certainly not trying to change the design. I loved the design and wanted to keep as much of it as possible, while making it proportional to my below-5 foot frame!

Needless to say I was very sad, and was ready to put this coat up for sale. But I just couldn't bear the thought of parting with it, so I took it back one more time to my personal tailors. After much hushed whispering in Korean and a thorough inspection of the coat, they must have taken pity on me ... and agreed to work on it!

End result:

Burberry Wool Cashmere Blend Coat, Sz 2 altered to fit a petite

In addition to removing 2 inches of material along the parameter of the collar, they moved the buttons over 1 inch on the belt so that it would be tighter. Very creative. One of the tailors said it took her an entire day of work ... and I couldn't be more pleased with the results!

It's unfortunate that there is no Burberry petite coats in their US retail stores. Nordstrom's online Burberry petite selection is so limited, plus a huge part of the coat buying experience is trying on different cuts and styles in person to find out what works for you.

Rain, Rain, Go Away - Burberry, Part 2 - Black Trench Raincoat

The only upside to rainy days is that my water-resistant Burberry pieces get to come out and play. This brings me to my second Burberry coat: a single-breasted raincoat in size 2 with detachable hood and fleece warmer, acquired circa 2007 at a Burberry outlet store.

Looking back, the fit was so awful that I should have left it behind. But at the time, I knew that size 2 was the smallest size they make, and I was stubborn about "making" it fit. I think of this poor coat like a child whom has undergone many surgeries:

1. Burberry retail store shortened and narrowed the sleeves (barely), refused to do shoulders or the body.
2. Burberry retail store elongated the sleeves, having mis-pinned the first time and made them inches too short!
3. My tailor narrowed the shoulders by 1.5 inches each side, tapered the entire body of the coat, and slimmed sleeves a little more.

End result (a little wrinkled from storage):

Burberry Single-Breasted Raincoat, Size 2

I like how there's many subtly different ways to wear this coat - hood on or off, collar up or down, with fleece warmer or without, belted or unbelted A-line style:

A-line, with removable warmer, and belted with popped collar

My coat had to undergo several stages of alterations because the tailors at the Burberry store often challenge or flat-out refuse my requests. For raincoats, they said they would not work on the shoulders, because all Burberry rainwear is dyed in one piece into water-resistant material, and any detatchment of individual pieces (like removing the arms from the shoulder) will cause damange to the water-resistancy. Another example - I wanted the sleeves slimmer but the Burberry tailor just kept scolding me repeatedly with "It's a coat, not a dress!" Ok...thank you for your opinion, but its my coat, so shouldn't I be able to decide?

As soon as I took the coat to my own tailor, she clucked her tongue at the poor fit and immediately started pinning away. She muttered in disapproval about how wide the shoulders were and how baggy the sleeves were. Sigh ... a good tailor is truly invaluable for us petites!